Vitamin C and SPF: why they work best together

Two different jobs

Sunscreen filters ultraviolet (UV) light before it can do its damage. UVB is the main cause of sunburn. UVA reaches deeper into the skin and plays a large part in ageing and pigmentation. The SPF number tells you about UVB protection, and the UVA star rating or UVA logo tells you about UVA.

Vitamin C works differently. It's an antioxidant, which means it helps neutralise unstable molecules called free radicals that UV and pollution create in the skin. It also plays a part in how skin makes collagen, and with regular use it can help skin look brighter and more even. What it can't do is block UV, so it never replaces your sunscreen.

Why they work well as a pair

No sunscreen filters every bit of UV, and many of us apply less than the amount used to test it. An antioxidant layer underneath helps deal with some of what gets through. That's why our practitioners suggest vitamin C in the morning, under SPF.

If pigmentation or sun spots bother you, this pairing matters most. UV encourages your skin to make more pigment, so daily protection helps stop existing marks darkening and new ones forming. It also protects the results of any treatment you have.

Your morning routine

A simple order that suits most skin:

• Cleanse gently, or just rinse if your skin is dry.
• Apply a few drops of vitamin C serum to dry skin and let it sink in for a minute.
• Add a light moisturiser if you need one.
• Finish with a sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher with at least 4-star UVA protection. Two finger lengths is a useful guide for the face and neck.
• Reapply every two hours when you're outside, and after swimming, sweating or towel drying.
• On bright days, add a hat, shade and sunglasses, because sunscreen works best alongside them.

Choosing a vitamin C you'll actually use

Vitamin C comes in several forms. Pure ascorbic acid, often listed as L-ascorbic acid, is the best known, but it can tingle and breaks down more easily. Forms such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside tend to be gentler and more stable. A few practical tips:

• Look for opaque or airless packaging, and keep the bottle away from heat and sunlight.
• If the serum turns dark orange or brown, it has oxidised and it's time to replace it.
• Mild tingling is common with ascorbic acid. Stinging that doesn't settle is a sign to try a gentler form.
• If your skin reacts easily, try a new product on a small area for a few days first.

Treatments that work alongside your routine

If uneven tone or sun damage is what bothers you most, an Advanced In-Depth Skin Analysis is a good first step. Our scanner photographs your skin in ultraviolet, standard and polarised light, which can show sun damage that's hard to see in the mirror. Your practitioner can then choose a vitamin C and SPF to suit your skin from the ZO Skin Health and AlumierMD ranges we stock.

In clinic, a HydraFacial, at Chichester and Petersfield, can include a booster serum chosen for dark spots or dullness, with no downtime. For well-defined sun spots, laser pigmentation treatment is available at Chichester after a patch test, for all skin types and tones. Whatever you choose, daily SPF is what protects your results.

Who should take care

If you have sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema, ask us before starting vitamin C, as some forms can sting. If you take or have recently taken prescription skin medication, tell us at your consultation, because some medicines make the skin more sensitive to light. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, mention it before any treatment so your practitioner can plan around it. If you notice a mole or mark that's new or changing, or one that bleeds, itches or won't heal, please see your GP rather than treating it cosmetically.