Chemical peels: what to expect and how much downtime

What a peel actually does

A chemical peel uses acids to loosen and lift away dead skin cells and encourage your skin's natural renewal. Skin looks fresher, brighter and smoother. Over a course, peels can help with uneven tone, congestion, texture and early signs of ageing.

We work with peels from AlumierMD, ZO Skin Health, CLINICCARE and BioRePeel, so there's plenty of choice. Mandelic acid, for example, is often used for sensitive skin, and salicylic acid for breakouts.

On the day

Your practitioner looks at your skin and cleanses it, then applies the peel, often in layers. Most people feel tingling or warmth. The peel stays on for a set time and is then removed or neutralised. The appointment usually takes 30 to 60 minutes, and you finish with soothing products and SPF.

How much downtime to expect

This is the question everyone asks. The honest answer is that it depends on the depth of the peel:

• Gentle peels and peel facials: often no visible peeling. The ZO Invisapeel and the AlumierMD Enzymatic Peel sit here, and skin looks pink for a few hours at most.
• Light peels: some tightness and light flaking for two to three days. This can happen after a ZO or AlumierMD peel, depending on the strength.
• BioRePeel: a 35% TCA peel designed to give the benefits of a peel with minimal visible peeling. Skin may feel tight for 24 to 48 hours, with mild flaking possible on days two and three.
• Medium-depth peels: more noticeable peeling for five to seven days, so plan around it.

Peels for pigmentation, breakouts and texture

Peels are a regular part of our plans for pigmentation, acne-prone skin and uneven texture. A single peel mainly gives a glow. A course of four to six peels, two to four weeks apart, usually does more. BioRePeel courses are often closer together, one to two weeks apart.

Melasma needs particular care, because the wrong treatment can make it worse. Our practitioners take a gradual approach with professional peels, medical-grade skincare and daily sun protection. We stock the ZO and AlumierMD home ranges, so your practitioner can build a routine that carries on the work between appointments.

Aftercare: what matters most

No visible peeling doesn't mean a peel hasn't worked. Renewal still increases underneath. Whatever peel you have, the aftercare is similar:

• Let your skin shed naturally. Don't pick or pull at flaking skin.
• Wear SPF every day, and avoid direct sun.
• Use gentle skincare and pause active ingredients for a few days.
• After a stronger peel, avoid make-up until your practitioner says it's fine.

Before you book

For up to a week before a peel, depending on the type, stop retinol, AHAs, BHAs and other active skincare, and avoid sun exposure, sunbeds and fake tan. A patch test may be needed. We may ask you to wait if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, or have a cold sore, infection, broken skin or recent sunburn in the area. If you've taken prescription acne or skin medication recently, or have a skin condition such as eczema or rosacea, tell us at your consultation.