Pigmentation is one of the most common reasons people come to see us, and one of the most misunderstood. A sun spot, a patch of melasma and the mark left after a spot can look alike but behave very differently, and the treatment that helps one can make another worse.
So my advice is always the same: find out what you're dealing with before you treat it. I'd much rather you spent a little time understanding your skin than money on the wrong treatment.
Know which kind you have
Most pigmentation falls into one of three groups:
- Sun spots and age spots: well-defined brown marks from years of sun exposure, often on the face, hands and chest.
- Melasma: brown or grey-brown patches, often on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip, linked to hormones and sun.
- Marks after breakouts: darker patches left behind once a spot or inflammation has healed.
A closer look first
An Advanced In-Depth Skin Analysis is a good first step. Our scanner photographs your skin in standard, polarised and UV light, which shows pigmentation and sun damage that can be hard to see in the mirror. The images support your practitioner's assessment, and they aren't a medical diagnosis.
If a mark is new, changing in size, shape or colour, bleeding or itchy, please see your GP before having any cosmetic treatment on it.
Not sure which treatment is right for you?
Answer five quick questions and we will suggest where to start, at the clinic nearest you.
Sun protection comes first
Pigmentation responds to the sun, so treating it without daily protection means working against yourself. Our practitioners will ask you to wear SPF every day, all year round, and to reapply when you're outside. It's the single most useful thing you can do for sun damage, and it protects the results of any treatment you have.
Peels and medical-grade skincare
For many people, the plan starts with professional peels and a home routine. Peels lift away dead skin cells and encourage renewal, which can help even out tone over a course, usually four to six peels spaced two to four weeks apart.
We use ZO Skin Health and AlumierMD for our facials and peels, and we stock both home ranges, so your practitioner can choose products that carry on the work between appointments. Our ZO facials include a Skin Brightening treatment for uneven tone at Chichester, and AlumierMD peels can be planned as a longer course for more established pigmentation.
Melasma: slow and steady
Melasma needs a careful approach, because the wrong treatment can make it worse. Our practitioners build a plan around professional peels, medical-grade skincare and strict daily sun protection, and check whether laser is suitable for your skin. Laser isn't used on active melasma.
Melasma tends to come back with sun and hormonal changes, so think of it as something to manage over time, not a one-off fix. If it started during pregnancy or alongside other hormonal changes, mention this at your consultation.
Laser for sun spots, and who should wait
Our laser pigmentation treatment, with the Harmony XL Pro at our Chichester clinic, targets excess pigment, which the body then clears naturally. Treated spots darken and crust over for seven to fourteen days before flaking away. Most sun spots respond to one or two sessions, and deeper or more extensive pigmentation may need three or four.
We treat all skin types and tones, and the Harmony XL Pro is designed for the full range of skin types. You'll need a patch test two weeks before, with no sun exposure or fake tan beforehand, so your practitioner can check how your skin responds and set the laser for you.
For any pigmentation treatment, we may ask you to wait if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, have a tan, or have broken skin, a cold sore or an infection in the area. Tell us about any medicines and skin conditions, as some medicines make the skin more sensitive to light. Prices are on our price list.
Questions clients ask
Will pigmentation come back after treatment?
Treated sun spots can clear, but new pigmentation can form with sun exposure, so daily SPF is essential. Melasma in particular tends to return without ongoing care.
Is laser suitable for my skin tone?
Yes. Every skin type and tone can be treated after a patch test, and your practitioner will tell you honestly if peels or skincare would suit your pigmentation better.
Why do spots go darker after laser?
The laser breaks up the pigment, which rises to the surface and looks darker before flaking away over seven to fourteen days. It's a normal part of the process, so try not to pick.
How long until I see a difference?
After laser, results usually show over two to four weeks. Peels and skincare work more gradually across a course, and melasma takes patience. Results vary from person to person.
About the author
Michael Allen
Director, Aesthetics Practitioner and Laser Specialist
Practises across the clinics with a focus on laser and skin, and teaches the skin programmes at the Academy.
More about MichaelRelated concerns: Pigmentation, Melasma, Sun Damage
This guide is general information, not medical advice. Results vary from person to person, and your practitioner will check what is suitable for you at your consultation.
